Prologue (Nov 10-20)
Trekking in Himalays has been a long cherished dream for me. Always wanted to go but for one reason or other never managed to go. This time I had invitation to attend marriages of two good friends (Mudit's in Delhi and Ruchin's in Haldwani). I decided, if I go to Haldwani, I will not come back without doing a trek in Himalayas.
I started exploring the options, soon I discovered two obstacles, firstly November is the off season for trekking in Himalayas and secondly, since this is a last minute plan so no friends to join me. So I decided I will do the trek alone, and I was quite excited about the idea of trekking alone. After deciding on the group for trek :), I started looking for possible trekking routes.I asked people on Orkut Communities and Yahoo Groups, did some Google search, looked at Lonely Planet India guide. After some research, I zeroed down on three treks, which I thought I can do alone:
Trekking in Himalays has been a long cherished dream for me. Always wanted to go but for one reason or other never managed to go. This time I had invitation to attend marriages of two good friends (Mudit's in Delhi and Ruchin's in Haldwani). I decided, if I go to Haldwani, I will not come back without doing a trek in Himalayas.
I started exploring the options, soon I discovered two obstacles, firstly November is the off season for trekking in Himalayas and secondly, since this is a last minute plan so no friends to join me. So I decided I will do the trek alone, and I was quite excited about the idea of trekking alone. After deciding on the group for trek :), I started looking for possible trekking routes.I asked people on Orkut Communities and Yahoo Groups, did some Google search, looked at Lonely Planet India guide. After some research, I zeroed down on three treks, which I thought I can do alone:
My preferred destination was Milam, that seemed most beautiful and toughest of all treks. I talked to the KMVN watchman in Munsayari over phone and he told me trek is possible and he can arrange a guide for me. So I almost decided for Milam. I purchased all I needed for trek, thermal inners, woolen socks, food Items (packaged milk, maggie, chocolates etc. standard stuff). I already own a tent so needed a sleeping bag, bought it from Wildcraft. After doing the shopping, I met Karnataka Mountaineering Association folks. They were very helpful and provided me a lot of information. I got to know that Milam would not be possible in 5-6 days, because I will have to obtain permit from border police and that could waste one day. So I decided I will do Kafni. I didn't want to do Pindari, because you cant reach till glacier, and I wanted to go till glacier. I will do Pindari only when I have proper gear to reach till the glacier.
I talked to KMVN guys in bangalore, but they suggested me not to go for trek instead book some other package tour through them. I thought they were commercially motivated and decided to ignore their advice. Through yahoo group/blog I got contact numbers of two guides. One number was not reachable, other was of a guy called Ratan Singh, luckily his number went through. When I spoke to this guy he said he can guide me for Kafni/Pindari, we did not talk about the money part. Same day I departed for New Delhi.
Meanwhile one of the orkut friend adviced me to be careful of wild animal attacks, specially because I am travelling alone. This being off season there will be few people around and due to snow in higher altitude, more wild animals are found in relatively low altitude. His concern was genunie, but I decided to decide future course of action in Haldwani.
Day 1 (Nov 23) : Haldwani to Song
Ratan Singh reached Haldwani at 3:00 AM from Rishikesh. After Ruchin's marriage I met him at 5:00 AM. He seemed very genuine trustworthy and knowledgeable, so I decided to continue on my plan. We discussed about Money. Whatever he quoted was reasonable, so I didn't negotiate. Though he assured me that there is no wild animal threat, I was still skeptical because of the money motivation on his part.
We started for Almora by Sumo at 6:30. Soon fell asleep, stopped for breakfast on the way. On the way to Almora, I got first glimpse of snow clad peaks. The Sumo dropped us at Dharanaula around 10:00 AM. Could not find any taxi to Bageshwar from there, so went to Almora bazar, got a taxi to Bageshwar and departed around 11:00. The other other person in the taxi was some local BJP politician. He also told me about wild animals and Animal attacks. This really scared me. Soon I realize that guy was a shallow personality and I should not give too much weightage, but there was some fear inside me by now. Anyway the route was very scenic, So enjoyed the journey. Reached Bageshwar around 3:00 PM. Got into a taxi for Bharadi, reached Bharadi at 4:00. Our Initial plan was to reach Loharkhet and spend night there. But got the news that due to some marriage Loharkhet guest house is full. Moreover Ratan wanted to do some shopping for his family from Bharadi. Left Bharadi around 6:00 PM, stoped at a place called Mangal Padao about 0.5 Km before Saung. I was feeling really good to be in Himalayas.
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| Day one photos from picasa album | |||
Day 2 (Nov 24) : Song to Dau
Next day morning we woke up at 5:30 AM. Packed few things in small bagpack, and piggybacked other bags on Mule carring ration for Khati. Left my tent at and few other things in the village itself. Started on a Jeep to Loharkhet (1600 meter above MSL) at 6:30, the Jeep journey was very adventerous as path was narrow with lots of sharp turns and full of stones and rocks, it was hardly motorable. Reached Loharkhet in 30 min, had tea and started the trekkat 7:15 AM. Trekked for 4 Km, reached Tala Dhakuri adound 8:30 and had breakfast (Maggie). By now I realized that these people always drink tea made of milk powder and like to put lot of salt in food Items. Started waking again, rested on the way at place called Jhandi-Dhar, the trekkwas uphill and quite steep at few places. Reached Dhakuri Top, this being a peak of hill, we got good view of Maitoli(6855m), Nanda Kot(6861m), and Panvali dwar(6663m) peaks. Also had first encounter of the trek with snow here. I was really very excited to find snow, I love snow. I played with snow, slided on snow, ate snow. It was fun.. The path was little slippery though due to thin layer of ice on rocks, We reached Dhakuri at 11:00 AM. I cooked aloo curry at hotel to make sure I get right quantity of spices and salt. Had first lunch of the trek and I was hungry after 9 km mostly uphill trek. After lunch I took a nap in open grass, amidst the fight for supremacy between clear noon Sun's warmth and blowing Winds chills. Started from Dhakuri around 1:00 PM. Met school kids, few Isrealie tourist, one Italian couple in their 60s, and numerous villagers on the way, Had tea at Kharkiyan, had another tea at Jakuni. Reached Dau around 4:30 PM. Dau was Ratan Singh's village and it is 1 km before major village called Khati. I was not tired at all, it was awsome trek, Himalayas have their own charm and refreshing effect. I realized that my camera battery was getting low, but the village has no electricity connection yet. Got to know that in Khat one gentleman named Tara Singh owns a generator and runs a TV in night. So walked till Khati around 8:00 PM. It was dark and was little scary walking through jungle with a torch, specially after hearing all those animal attack stories. At Khati I was amazed to see this guy running a generator proudly. Kids come to watch TV by paying 5 Rs. He charged me 100 Rs. per hour for recharging the battery. I had no other option. But when he explained me how much trouble he had when he had to repair his generator, I didn't find it too expensive, but appreciated such a unique service in this part of the world. Had my dinner, decided that we will move for Dwali next day after breakfast and slept after a eventful day.
Day 3 (Nov 25) : Dau and Khati
Went for a walk early in the morning to nearby hilltop. We were preparing to leave for Dwali, then Durga Singh (Ratan's bro) suggested that there is a Marriage in Khati village and I should see that, I liked the suggestion and stayed back. The marriage was supposed to be around 1:00 PM. So me and Prakash (local villager) and Dam Sing (10 year old, Ratan's nephew) decide to trek to a nearby hill top and do a jungle walk. This trek was like a Sinhgad (Pune)/Nandi Hills (Bangalore). We went to top, stopped for some time clicked some photos and came back in 4 hours. The view from top was awesome and the autumn leaves in Jungle were had mesmerising colors.
Went to Khati, visited Khati temple, the marriage ceremony was not yet started so came back to Dau. Went again to Khati, saw marriage, I liked the choliya dance and Bhang-Mint Chatani. Again put my batteries for charging and spent some time alone star-gazing. Sky was so clear and so much full of stars that it was difficult even to find Orion. Came back from Khati to Dau at 8:00 PM and slept around 10:00 PM. It was pretty good to get some insight into the life of Mountain people of Himalayas.
Day 4 (Nov 26) : Dau to Dwali
Woke up at 6:00, after breakfast we started for Dwali around 8:45 AM with Ratan and Prakash. Though Ratan wanted to carry my rucksack which was approx 7-8 Kg, I insisted on carrying it myself. We crossed Khati after which it was steep uphill for 1 Km or so and then 3 km down hill, after which it was again uphill. The walk was through most dense Alpine forest found on the trek so far. After walking 6 Km we reached a place called Malya-Dhoud. Malaya is local name for wild pigeon. We found few abandoned Gujjar huts here. Gujjar's move other low altitude places in winter before snowfall starts. Started walking again after some rest. We were walking along the Pindar river, crossing it 3 times on wooden bridges before Reaching Dwali. Malaya dhoud to Dwali is 6 km and again uphill, but it was not a steep climb. We reached Dwali guest house at 12:15, exactly in 2:30 hours. Local people were impressed with our speed and I myself was impressed with my speed in this uphill trek. Had lunch at 1:00 and slept for 2 hour under the sun in open, evening we tried to find Tahr or some other wild animals, but were not lucky to find any. After having dinner and spending time with local people slept around 9:30. One of the local people told me that he saw a bear on the way to Kafni Glacier yesterday. All the people I met on the way to Khati were returning from Pindari, and the watchman told me none has gone to Kafni in last month or so.
Day 5 (Nov 27) : Dwali to Kafni to Dau
Trek between Dwali and Kafni was completely in wilderness, no humans to be found on the way, and chances of encountering a bear were giving me goose bumps. Though Ratan Singh wanted to start at 5:30, I insisted on starting late. We started around 7:00 AM, I wore lot of clothes expecting it to be very cold as per Ratan's description (I had three layers of clothing). We reached Khatia around 9:00 AM, cooked maggie for breakfast. Removed my jacket and woolen cap. Started walking again. It was a steep uphill climb and very sunny day. I was walking very slow. It got very difficult to walk after 2-3 KM. Ratan told me this could be due to altitude sickness. But I thought it was very hot so I removed one extra lower and woolen sweater. I was feeling very comfortable now with Thermals and T-shirt and Jeans. As we were walking I found some predator pugmark, but Ratan tried to convince me unsuccessfully that they were deer pugmark. When I found a clear pugmark, he admitted that they are leopard pugmark, and he didn't want to scare me. But now we are in it so I had left my fear behind or at least pretended :). We walked around Leopard pugmark for 1 km, those looked not very old, my be 2-3 hours or even 1 hour old. Good that we started late!
We got a good view of Nanda Kot from Bayala. This is the place where KMVN is planning to build a guest house and should be ready very soon. We reached Kafni zero point and from there till glacier we had to walk in Snow and Rocks and cross small streams of water to reach till the face of Glacier. We reached the face of glacier at 11:30 AM. It was amazing feeling, this is first time I had seen a Glacier. The rocks/stones were falling from the top as the ice was melting. The Glacier cave was blackish in color, ice crystals were mixed with soil and stones. The glacier was looking like a big monolith, at first glance you will find it hard to believe that this is Ice. I had seen glacier of Patagonia and Arctic with blue/green ice, and expecting something similar here. It was not what I expected, but it was very beautiful and an experience of lifetime. Rocks were falling from all over and we had to move away from this place quickly. It was already noon and we were standing on a unstable structure which could melt and collapse. We started back for Dwali around 12:00. Reached Dwali exactly at 2:00 PM. Had our lunch and after some rest we decided we will walk back to Dau today itself. We started from Dwali at 3:10 PM. Ratan told we might have to walk in jugle in dark, because Khati is 12 km of which 3 km is uphill. I didnt want to be in Jungle after sunset so started walking fast, specially on downhill covering the distance faster. I have pretty good control on my downhill running and foot placing. We reached Malya-Dhoud which is 6 km from Dwali at 4:05 PM. Rested there for 5 min and started again. We reached Dau in light of the day at 5:40. It was amazing day, one of the most memorable days of life. I walked approximately 40 km, but still not very tired, this is probably Himalaya effect. Night Ratan Signh cooked kheer to end the trek on a sweet note.
Day 5 (Nov 28) : Dau to Bageshwar
Woke up around 7:00 AM. Ratan Singh decided to stay back at Dau, his brother Mahipal was coming with me till Bageshwar. We started at 8:30 AM and walked leisurely. Reached Song at 4:00 PM, picked up my luggage. Got a Jeep to Bharadi and from Bharadi to Bageshwar. Checked into hotel Siddhartha near bus stand, Visited Bagnath temple went around the market. But it was disappointing to see the market shuts down at 7:00 PM. Went to hotel room switched on the TV and got the news of Terror attacks on Mumbai. I realize fear from humans is more real than fear from other animals.
Next day morning we woke up at 5:30 AM. Packed few things in small bagpack, and piggybacked other bags on Mule carring ration for Khati. Left my tent at and few other things in the village itself. Started on a Jeep to Loharkhet (1600 meter above MSL) at 6:30, the Jeep journey was very adventerous as path was narrow with lots of sharp turns and full of stones and rocks, it was hardly motorable. Reached Loharkhet in 30 min, had tea and started the trekkat 7:15 AM. Trekked for 4 Km, reached Tala Dhakuri adound 8:30 and had breakfast (Maggie). By now I realized that these people always drink tea made of milk powder and like to put lot of salt in food Items. Started waking again, rested on the way at place called Jhandi-Dhar, the trekkwas uphill and quite steep at few places. Reached Dhakuri Top, this being a peak of hill, we got good view of Maitoli(6855m), Nanda Kot(6861m), and Panvali dwar(6663m) peaks. Also had first encounter of the trek with snow here. I was really very excited to find snow, I love snow. I played with snow, slided on snow, ate snow. It was fun.. The path was little slippery though due to thin layer of ice on rocks, We reached Dhakuri at 11:00 AM. I cooked aloo curry at hotel to make sure I get right quantity of spices and salt. Had first lunch of the trek and I was hungry after 9 km mostly uphill trek. After lunch I took a nap in open grass, amidst the fight for supremacy between clear noon Sun's warmth and blowing Winds chills. Started from Dhakuri around 1:00 PM. Met school kids, few Isrealie tourist, one Italian couple in their 60s, and numerous villagers on the way, Had tea at Kharkiyan, had another tea at Jakuni. Reached Dau around 4:30 PM. Dau was Ratan Singh's village and it is 1 km before major village called Khati. I was not tired at all, it was awsome trek, Himalayas have their own charm and refreshing effect. I realized that my camera battery was getting low, but the village has no electricity connection yet. Got to know that in Khat one gentleman named Tara Singh owns a generator and runs a TV in night. So walked till Khati around 8:00 PM. It was dark and was little scary walking through jungle with a torch, specially after hearing all those animal attack stories. At Khati I was amazed to see this guy running a generator proudly. Kids come to watch TV by paying 5 Rs. He charged me 100 Rs. per hour for recharging the battery. I had no other option. But when he explained me how much trouble he had when he had to repair his generator, I didn't find it too expensive, but appreciated such a unique service in this part of the world. Had my dinner, decided that we will move for Dwali next day after breakfast and slept after a eventful day.
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| Day two photos from picasa album | |||
Went for a walk early in the morning to nearby hilltop. We were preparing to leave for Dwali, then Durga Singh (Ratan's bro) suggested that there is a Marriage in Khati village and I should see that, I liked the suggestion and stayed back. The marriage was supposed to be around 1:00 PM. So me and Prakash (local villager) and Dam Sing (10 year old, Ratan's nephew) decide to trek to a nearby hill top and do a jungle walk. This trek was like a Sinhgad (Pune)/Nandi Hills (Bangalore). We went to top, stopped for some time clicked some photos and came back in 4 hours. The view from top was awesome and the autumn leaves in Jungle were had mesmerising colors.
Went to Khati, visited Khati temple, the marriage ceremony was not yet started so came back to Dau. Went again to Khati, saw marriage, I liked the choliya dance and Bhang-Mint Chatani. Again put my batteries for charging and spent some time alone star-gazing. Sky was so clear and so much full of stars that it was difficult even to find Orion. Came back from Khati to Dau at 8:00 PM and slept around 10:00 PM. It was pretty good to get some insight into the life of Mountain people of Himalayas.
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| Day three photos from picasa album | |||
Woke up at 6:00, after breakfast we started for Dwali around 8:45 AM with Ratan and Prakash. Though Ratan wanted to carry my rucksack which was approx 7-8 Kg, I insisted on carrying it myself. We crossed Khati after which it was steep uphill for 1 Km or so and then 3 km down hill, after which it was again uphill. The walk was through most dense Alpine forest found on the trek so far. After walking 6 Km we reached a place called Malya-Dhoud. Malaya is local name for wild pigeon. We found few abandoned Gujjar huts here. Gujjar's move other low altitude places in winter before snowfall starts. Started walking again after some rest. We were walking along the Pindar river, crossing it 3 times on wooden bridges before Reaching Dwali. Malaya dhoud to Dwali is 6 km and again uphill, but it was not a steep climb. We reached Dwali guest house at 12:15, exactly in 2:30 hours. Local people were impressed with our speed and I myself was impressed with my speed in this uphill trek. Had lunch at 1:00 and slept for 2 hour under the sun in open, evening we tried to find Tahr or some other wild animals, but were not lucky to find any. After having dinner and spending time with local people slept around 9:30. One of the local people told me that he saw a bear on the way to Kafni Glacier yesterday. All the people I met on the way to Khati were returning from Pindari, and the watchman told me none has gone to Kafni in last month or so.
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| Day four photos from picasa album | |||
Trek between Dwali and Kafni was completely in wilderness, no humans to be found on the way, and chances of encountering a bear were giving me goose bumps. Though Ratan Singh wanted to start at 5:30, I insisted on starting late. We started around 7:00 AM, I wore lot of clothes expecting it to be very cold as per Ratan's description (I had three layers of clothing). We reached Khatia around 9:00 AM, cooked maggie for breakfast. Removed my jacket and woolen cap. Started walking again. It was a steep uphill climb and very sunny day. I was walking very slow. It got very difficult to walk after 2-3 KM. Ratan told me this could be due to altitude sickness. But I thought it was very hot so I removed one extra lower and woolen sweater. I was feeling very comfortable now with Thermals and T-shirt and Jeans. As we were walking I found some predator pugmark, but Ratan tried to convince me unsuccessfully that they were deer pugmark. When I found a clear pugmark, he admitted that they are leopard pugmark, and he didn't want to scare me. But now we are in it so I had left my fear behind or at least pretended :). We walked around Leopard pugmark for 1 km, those looked not very old, my be 2-3 hours or even 1 hour old. Good that we started late!
We got a good view of Nanda Kot from Bayala. This is the place where KMVN is planning to build a guest house and should be ready very soon. We reached Kafni zero point and from there till glacier we had to walk in Snow and Rocks and cross small streams of water to reach till the face of Glacier. We reached the face of glacier at 11:30 AM. It was amazing feeling, this is first time I had seen a Glacier. The rocks/stones were falling from the top as the ice was melting. The Glacier cave was blackish in color, ice crystals were mixed with soil and stones. The glacier was looking like a big monolith, at first glance you will find it hard to believe that this is Ice. I had seen glacier of Patagonia and Arctic with blue/green ice, and expecting something similar here. It was not what I expected, but it was very beautiful and an experience of lifetime. Rocks were falling from all over and we had to move away from this place quickly. It was already noon and we were standing on a unstable structure which could melt and collapse. We started back for Dwali around 12:00. Reached Dwali exactly at 2:00 PM. Had our lunch and after some rest we decided we will walk back to Dau today itself. We started from Dwali at 3:10 PM. Ratan told we might have to walk in jugle in dark, because Khati is 12 km of which 3 km is uphill. I didnt want to be in Jungle after sunset so started walking fast, specially on downhill covering the distance faster. I have pretty good control on my downhill running and foot placing. We reached Malya-Dhoud which is 6 km from Dwali at 4:05 PM. Rested there for 5 min and started again. We reached Dau in light of the day at 5:40. It was amazing day, one of the most memorable days of life. I walked approximately 40 km, but still not very tired, this is probably Himalaya effect. Night Ratan Signh cooked kheer to end the trek on a sweet note.
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| Day five photos from picasa album | |||
Woke up around 7:00 AM. Ratan Singh decided to stay back at Dau, his brother Mahipal was coming with me till Bageshwar. We started at 8:30 AM and walked leisurely. Reached Song at 4:00 PM, picked up my luggage. Got a Jeep to Bharadi and from Bharadi to Bageshwar. Checked into hotel Siddhartha near bus stand, Visited Bagnath temple went around the market. But it was disappointing to see the market shuts down at 7:00 PM. Went to hotel room switched on the TV and got the news of Terror attacks on Mumbai. I realize fear from humans is more real than fear from other animals.
thanks for sharing...wow what a travlogue..
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